Saturday, August 22, 2009

96 miles to Canada: hills, bugs, moose, rain and mud



Bingham to St Georges, Quebec was a very long day, if you decide to repeat our route; we would recommend you do it in two days. We left Bingham fairly early, the weather felt wonderful in the 60s and cloudy and initially there were just a few steep rollers along the way. The scenery was beautiful, green and lush, flowers on the side of the road, rivers and lakes, It sounds pretty idyllic except for the “bugs”, the slight tail breeze helped a millions of bugs, including mosquitoes and gnats swarming around our heads when we were going less than 7 mph up the hills. After a short stop at The Forks for a snack the rollers became big mountains. It was the north part of the Appalachian Mtns and those never ending hills were making us very tired and hungry. We stopped at one of the long ridges and found a moose as you see in the picture, we had a snack in his or her company (too far to tell the gender)
About half way between our start and planned end of the ride is Jackman, ME. We stopped at The Four Seasons restaurant at around 1 PM we had the special: fish chowder with a grilled cheese sandwich, and we also ordered cole slaw and dessert. Steve was wondering if we overdid it for lunch but now knowing what we had to go through in the second half of the ride I think it was a good idea. There was another big mountain to climb after lunch and it was not until we were 5 miles from the border that we started going downhill. We arrived at the border around 3:30 PM with still about 35 miles to go. We got special treatment trying to enter Canada, they asked us many questions as if we were smuggling stuff in the panniers, or maybe they were worried we were homeless (probably based in the way we smelled at that point).
After they let us go, a miracle happened, the tail wind got very strong and the hills disappeared, what a relief... but wait... only until it started pouring rain.
We made it to St Georges by 6 PM and the last part of the road was awful, under repair and the pavement was gone so with the rain it was pure mud.
With some struggle we found the "Gite B and B Maison Vinot" marked as bicyclist friendly. We were worried to enter the B and B in the state we were in, wet, smelly and full of mud. The hosts were unbeliabable nice. Raymonde and Philippe. They have a restaurant in the first floor and four rooms with a shared bathroom upstairs. The house was built in 1927, had hardwood floors and very nice decorations. We took a shower and went downstairs to have the best meal we had since we started, steamed mussels, salad and lobster with veggies and rice, dessert was a "margarita cream brulee" and mine was "orgasmic dessert" (it had chocolate, strawberries, port wine, and rasberry sorbet and you can imagine how well it tasted with that name!).
The owners invited us to have wine with them after they closed the restaurant, unfortunately we were so exhausted with crawled into bed and slept soundly until the next morning.

2 comments:

  1. Claire,

    I am guessing you are asking about the dessert, what I can tell you is that the next day it kept coming to mind everytime I felt hungry while riding. I settled for the icecream you see in the phote of the next day. It was an unforgettable dessert...

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